Staniel Cay - Big Major Cay

Welcome to Staniel Cay

We had been looking forward to our stop in Staniel Cay for most of our trip. This was one of my father's favorite stops every time he cruised through the Exumas. From the swimming pigs to the Thunderball grotto of 007 fame, and of course shopping, our to do list was long and our excitement was high.

One of the charter yachts with part of the BMC anchorage

A lot of boats anchor off of Big Major Cay, just north of Staniel Cay but there were already too many boats there for our taste. Behind about 50 boats in the anchorage, were the charter yachts, about 5-6 100'-200' yachts covering the entire area, well out into the bay. We decided we'd pass on that anchorage and head in towards the Staniel Cay Yacht Club see what the small anchorage area looked like just off Staniel Cay.

There were only a couple boats anchored, but the area was small and the current was strong. We slowly crept around and our patience paid off. We found a small spot, just out of the way, with a great view and plenty of room to swing with the current. 

Steve checking for anchor drag before checking in the dinghy

View of Staniel Cay from Miss Daisy

Once Captain was sure the anchor was set, we couldn't wait any longer to check out the grotto. I thought I pretty much knew what to expect when we got there, I was so wrong! We anchored the dinghy just off the entrance to the grotto and geared up. There were only a couple other dinghies there, several heading out so it looked like our timing was perfect. 

Swimming in, you know it will open up once inside but what I didn't anticipate was the sun shining in through the hole at the top. The rays of light lit the water similar to the effect of underwater LEDs. The large underwater openings glowed as a beautiful backdrop that helped distinguish the hundreds of fish swimming around. Speaking of fish! Outside large tropical aquariums in places like Shedd Aquarium in Chicago, I have never seen so many beautiful fish, let alone as large as the ones there. All the color was almost a shock to your system. From the ice blue of the water, to the bright yellow/white of the sun's rays shining down, to the coral, the walls and the fish. So many colors of fish! Steve had thought to bring a small container of leftover corn that he let go in the water inside. The fish swarmed and surrounded us, happily feeding without a care in the world. With very strict "No fishing" rules there, they had no concern and it was obvious we weren't the first to think of the food idea. At times we had the entire place to ourselves - it was all ours to explore every amazing part. I could have stayed there for hours but after about 45 minutes, the crowd returned and if you have snorkeled before, you know how much fun it can be with a crowd of tourist in snorkel gear can be in a confined place - all fins and elbows! We headed back home with all of us riding high on the excitement of what we just experienced. One of the highlights of my life for sure! Here is a video we had put together while we were there to show family. The quality of Dani's underwater camera isn't great but hopefully it gets some of the awesomeness across. [Spoiler alert: the video also includes images from our trip to feed the pigs that  I'll talk about in a bit.]

  

Excited to head in to explore the island

Once back, with plenty of energy from our excitement, we picked up Grandma and headed in to shore for a provision trip and tour of the island. After striking out at the first store, Isles General Store, conveniently located right on the water with a dock, we decided to head into the other stores located further up the road in town. It had been awhile since Grandma had been to shore and she was anxious to stretch her legs and walk around - the only problem, it was so incredibly hot and it was now about 2pm, the heat of the day. So what do we do to help us out??..fuel up on Goombay Punch and candy bars, of course!

First stop for excursion fuel

Heading out after fueling up

After energizing with sugar, we headed out to what the locals call the "Pink" house, so named because it's painted all pink]. At the Pink Pearl we were pleasantly surprised by the cold air-conditioning and well stocked inventory, we purchased some items but with only accepting cash, we didn't want to use up too much of the cash we had with us. We then went to the "Blue" store, [you got it, all blue!] where they were able to accept our debit card, and finished our provisioning including cake mix for Jake's upcoming birthday. [Big plans in the works for his special day.]

Along the walk and trip back to the boat, we loved seeing all the chickens running loose, baby chicks hiding in a small shelter and several Sloops ready for the upcoming annual Family Regatta in Georgetown. I always love walking through these island towns, wondering what daily life is like for the locals. The pace is always slow, the energy is always friendly, and the breeze is always blowing with the smell of fresh baked bread. Everyone is always so helpful and not once since arriving in the Bahamas have we ever worried about crime or felt in danger. It truly has been paradise.

why?

babies!

Once back at the boat, we unloaded and stowed all our supplies. We enjoyed some of the fresh fruit we had just purchased and cut up the rest for storage. With a bunch of fruit rinds and food scrapes, we headed out to Big Major in search of swimming pigs to feed.

At first we had a little trouble finding the right beach. There were three crescent beaches in a row and no pigs in sight. In fact, only one couple were the only occupants. We stopped and asked the couple if we were in the right place. They said we were and that the first beach is the one we wanted. With a "you can't miss them" we headed back to the first beach. Upon getting close, all we saw were big rocks located right at the tree line in the shade.....until those rocks started moving! Those weren't rocks at all but giant pigs, hiding from the hot sun! Not quite what we were expecting since we were expecting cute little swimming piglets. These big guys were not at all shy and were very forward about their desire for our treats. After a few minutes, a couple other boats joined in the fun. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves, this was quite the experience.

After a very FULL day, we enjoyed a mellow sunset with dinner and quickly settled into exhausted sleep.

The next morning, while Steve preformed some routine boat maintenance, the kids and I took a swim. After the kids tired out, I was swimming along the boat and spotted a massive manta ray. As it floated regally below me, I floated, mesmerized, 10 feet above it. I was temporarily transported into another world as we silently glided together. A moment I'll remember forever. Regretfully, I didn't have a camera with me but I did take a mental video that I replay frequently.

Once maintenance was completed and after a quick second visit to the grotto, we headed out of Staniel Cay full of amazing memories. With a couple of uneventful stops at Black Point and then White Point, we made our way to the island we ended up staying at the longest. 

Next up, Lee Stocking Island!