Saturday, May 7, 2016

Shroud Cay

From Norman's Cay, we made our way to Shroud Cay and the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. The anchorages were full of charter yachts and fellow cruisers. We anchored down past all the crowd, in the lee of the island to avoid the still heavy winds, and headed out to explore the island.
Anchorage at Shroud Cay
We tucked in to one of the island creeks that weave through the island like little rivers of beautiful blue water on our way to find adventure. 



After about 20 minutes of idling along, we passed another dinghy heading the other way. Good sign, we weren't lost. We continued on and soon saw an opening to the other side, with a beach and what appeared to be a full camp set up with several boats. Charters. I'll give them one thing, they do it up in style but they also take all the good spots and fill it up with their toys. Several kids on paddleboards, jet skis, families lounging under one of the many tents, crew running around attending to their every need. Lucky ducks! But for us mortals, we must fend for ourselves. Off to find another beach. We continued on along our little river of Caribbean blue, right turns, left turns and just when we think we might be lost, we find what appears to be access to the beach on the other side. We anchor our dinghy, walk over a hill of moon rocks [aged limestone, blackened by the sun and sharpened by the waters] to a beautiful long sandy beach and what do we see? Not a single yacht guest or another person in sight!





Tropicbird in nest
Tropicbird in nest
Making our way down the other side of the moon rock hill, we are caught by surprise [okay, I'll admit, scared silly] by an ear piercing screech. Looking down, we see a white-tailed Tropicbird guarding his nest in a small cavity in the hillside. Making sure not to scare this beauty from his nest, we take a moment to look around and realize there are quite a few of these holes and decide to keep our eye out. Good thing too, we almost stepped on one more on the way down. These unique birds are a beauty to see in the sky. Easily identified by its pair of long tail feathers that stream out behind it, extending to over 30 inches. The populations of Tropicbirds are declining rapidly. Just twenty years ago, there were 10,000 pairs nesting in the West Indies, today there are only 2,000 - 3,000 pair. Approximately 500 of these pairs nest in the Bahamas. A pair will lay a single egg and take turns incubating while the other hunts.
*not my photo* but I wanted you to see how beautiful they are in flight

Once off the rocks and onto the soft sandy beach, we had a pleasant walk and swim in the soft waves. We spent a couple hours there before heading back, extra careful this time to avoid the nesting beauties. Once back in the dinghy, we continued down the inland river in the same direction we were in before we stopped. We ended up coming out of the island on the same side but about a mile down from Miss Daisy. While on the way back, we spotted a sign on one of the small beaches. We had read about a fresh water well that had been used for over a hundred years and here was a sun-faded sign that read simply "To Well". We beached and followed the path, up the cliff, aided by steps that had been carved into the limestone. At the top was another sign that read "Trail to Well" shaped into a makeshift arrow. We followed a path that ended at a large natural hole. There were a couple of buckets with ropes attached, so Steve pulled one up and sampled the water. Delicious! We just so happened to have our large water container with us [always plan ahead] so we filled it up and our strong man-child, Jacob, carried it back to the dinghy.
Delicious, yummy water

Fresh Water Well that has been used over 100 years. The Caretaker in 1929, put a rock ring around the lip of the well to keep it from crumbling in.


Once back on the boat, we realized the wind had turned just enough to rough up the waters and our plan of anchoring out of the way didn't pan out as several boats were not too close for comfort. We decided we'd rough the waves and winds and head out in search of calmer water. Steve planned our route for Warderick Wells, only about an hour away, and off we went.


Next stop, Warderick Wells!




Norman's Cay

Our next stop was Norman's Cay. This island has an infamous and rich history. In 1978, the Colombian Drug runner, Carlos Lehder, came to the island in the middle of the intense days of the Bahamian drug running. Right away, Lehder started buying up most of the property - all while running the locals out of and off the island. He bought a house for himself, that he ran the family out of, along with a hotel and airstrip that he extended to help with his drug smuggling operations.

Norman's Cay quickly became the hub of cocaine smuggling from 1978 - 1982 between Columbia and the US. I believe Lehder is portrayed by a character named Diego in Johnny Depp's movie BLOW. I have not watched the movie but would love to see it now, knowing the history of the island. 

After a NBC report aired on September 5, 1983 reporting on the corruption of the Bahamian government corruption, Lehder was forced off the island and not allowed to return. The government seized all his money and frozen all his assets. The paradise island was available to return to the paradise that it once was before becoming a den of debauchery. 

We pulled into the quiet waters of Norman Cay after a rough night of heavy swells and little sleep. 

The gorgeous blue waters were like a siren calling us to anchor. Right away we saw the infamous sunken airplane, the wreckage of a Curtiss C-46 Commando that crashed in the shallow waters when it missed the runway on a drug delivery. It sits in about 12' of water and we anchored a couple hundred yards away. Anxious to explore the wreckage we'd read so much about, once the anchor was set, we were in the dinghy heading that way. We were not disappointed! What an amazing sight. Many colorful fish, lots of large fish. We swam through the fuselage, over the wings, and even around the tail. We would have stayed there hours but the current was rocking through there and with the sharp, rusty edges of the plane's skeleton, we decided it wasn't worth someone getting cut so we headed back to Miss Daisy.

These are not my pictures since our underwater camera was off-duty that day but they give you an idea of what we saw.
* not my photo * This is the condition we found it in.

*not my photo* This is what it looked like in the 80's and insert is now. 

Windy weather moved in later that day and stayed with us for a couple days. The waves into the once calm harbor had since picked up and along with the swells, were often uncomfortable. Not ones to shy away from a challenge, we stayed where we were while we watched all of our neighbors' boats raise anchor and bail out. Leaving only a large work barge being used for work on the other side of the island. On one of the calmer days, we took off exploring the flats at low tide. So many sand dollars, starfish, and large helmet conchs! We also saw a lemon shark, and an eel?? and found what we have since dubbed the "Pirate cup". We ended up at the prettiest little beach with pools of warm tidal water full of colorful fish. It made for a long walk but was worth it. Unfortunately, I didn't think we'd be gone long and didn't bring my camera so you'll have to take our word for it. We, however, have plenty of memory photos for ourselves.
A far off view of where we walked through but
taken from Miss Daisy
A far off view of where we walked through but
 taken from Miss Daisy
Being surrounded by plenty of beaches, we had our pick to walk the dogs. Having the anchorage empty allowed us to let the dogs run off leash on the beaches, which is their favorite and works out their wiggles. So, one morning while Dani and Steve were walking the dogs off leash on an empty beach, they were surprised when the dogs ran off to greet some new friends. Apparently these unexpected new friends were exploring the island from the large charter yacht anchored offshore. Dani ran after Louie but being barefoot and not looking, stepped on coral and sliced her heel pretty badly. Needless to say, she was out of commission for a few days so her and I spent a day in the air-conditioning watching chick flicks and began the planning of Jacob's super secret awesome Harry Potter birthday extravaganza.
A view of one of the beaches with some old huts from Lehder's days

After the third night of bouncing to sleep, and a particularly windy night, we awoke to see the work barge had drug his anchor, leaving him right in front of us. Not comfortable with that and realizing we probably weren't going to get to shore to explore the island and old .... compound, we decided it was time to head out. We left the quiet but rough harbor of Norman's Cay, past the lone palm tree on the little island, past the large charter yachts anchored well offshore, and onward to our next adventure.
Goodbye lonely palm tree!


Next stop, Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park!

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A visual of our times for the first 45 days in the Bahamas.


Life Living Aboard 2016 Bahamas

Enjoy,

~M/Y Miss Daisy