Goodbye Bahamas–Browns Cay

We left our spot in Warderick Wells at dawn. The winds and sea were both eerily calm so the cruise to New Providence was tranquil. We stopped briefly in New Providence for fuel before heading out again. By the time we anchored for the day, it was dark and nothing to see but the glow of lights from the big island of Andros. We headed out again early so we could get to our final stop before jumping over to the US.

Browns Cay is nothing  more than a tiny island full of nesting gulls. And by full, I mean full. We lost count at 30 nests complete with eggs. We made sure not to disturb any of them and quickly left the land to swim and snorkel around the island. There is a large sunken ship that appears to have crashed into the rock island and sunk many years ago. It was teaming with fish, lobster, and other sea life. While the boys tried their hand at lobstering, Danielle and I fished off the dinghy. We caught something with every cast! Unfortunately, we didn’t think to bring a camera so they will remain our personal “fish stories” but I swear the grouper we caught was at least 14 pounds! Also unfortunately, the huge lobster managed to avoid capture by the boys, leaving them with one antenna, a broken pole spear, and a bunch of painful scratches.

Once back on the boat, we were treated to our last spectacular Bahamas sunset. They never ceased to amaze us, each one more beautiful than the last.

Dusk brought out the dolphins. Who merrily swam around Miss Daisy, curious about the kids and dogs watching them. The sky was filled with seagulls, finding their final meals and settling in for the night.

Our last evening in the Bahamas. The dolphins and seagulls seemed to gather to say goodbye. Even the clouds got into the act and magically formed a large shark. There is a magic in the Bahamas. We experienced it everywhere we went. From the generosity of the people, opening their homes and lives to strangers. To the majestic silence of the huge sharks and manta rays, sharing their waters so peacefully. To the profound history each island owns and is there for anyone who wants to explore and learn. To the beauty of the water, the reefs, the ocean life, and landscape, cherished by all so that years from now, all of this will still be as it should.
This trip will forever hold a space in each of us. This trip changed us, for the better. As I believe any traveling does. It reminds us just how big this world of ours is and just how fragile it can be if we do not do our part to be good stewards.
Goodbye for now Bahamas. We’ll see you soon.
Next stop – Florida Keys.

Warderick Wells - Part two - Underwater [Video included]

Our second day at Warderick Wells started with the boys heading in to the park headquarters so they could work on the park's ranger boats. The warden needed someone to do all the routine maintenance on the outboards and they didn't have anyone on staff that could do it, so Steve to the rescue! After they finished there, they were sent out to the other side of the main island to pick up some large trash piles we had spotted the previous day during our hike to Boo Boo Hill, [see Warderick Wells - Part one - Boo Boo Hill]. After about 4 hours of volunteer time, they headed back to Miss Daisy just in time for some lunch.

Sophie helping with lunch clean up

After lunch, we decided to head in to Rendezvous Beach [Trail Map] so we could check out the Davis Family Plantation Ruins. The ruins date back to the 1700's and housed a plantation settled by Loyalists, fleeing the United States. There wasn't much left, which isn't surprising, based on the age and the location atop an island that has seen many hurricanes but even so, you could still get a sense of the history. The remains are comprised of three buildings of conch shell, rock, and mortar construction, and a stone wall that runs from one side of the island to the other. This wall was used to contain livestock.We failed to bring a camera that day but here are a couple pictures, courtesy of Le rapide escargot. 

The wall used to keep in livestock.  Photo courtesy of Le rapide escargot

Davis Family ruins. Photo courtesy of Le rapide escargot

The landscape is littered with barren trees that are the main food source for the hutia that live and thrive here. Hutia, a mix of guinea pig and rat, are not shy or skittish and are easily visible all over the island. [Bahamian Hutia] Although cute, according to Cherry in the park headquarters, they are a bit of a nuisance. Once an important food source of the Indian inhabitants, they were thought to be extinct until rediscovered in 1966. They are now thriving but still considered endangered. 

Cute hutia

After we returned from hiking the Davis Plantation Trail, we jumped in to cool off and decided to check out Emerald Rock from the water. After spotting a rather large barracuda off the stern, the kids decided they would stay behind. Since that is how the last know resident of Shroud Cay died, I don't blame them.

Bubba the Barracude

The reef that surrounds Emerald Rock isn't as colorful as some in the Bahamas but was a well spent afternoon. Below is a video we shot along our way.

We loved our time spent here and could have definitely spent more time enjoying all the trails and beaches in Warderick but running low on provisions drove us onward. 

Next up, Staniel Cay! Swimming pigs, shopping, and the Thunderdome Grotto!  

Warderick Wells - Part one - Boo Boo Hill

After leaving Shroud Cay, trying to get away from the wind and waves, we pulled into Warderick Wells. We wove our way through the large charter and private yachts into one of the park run mooring fields. The closer we got to shore, the more the winds calmed. Once we pulled in behind Emerald Rock, just off Warderick Wells, we were in beautiful, calm, and protected water. We grabbed a mooring ball in the empty field and since it was well past office hours at the park, we settled in for the night and were treated to a beautiful view of the sun setting behind Emerald Rock.

The next morning, after a quick trip ashore to walk the dogs on one of the many beautiful beaches, we headed into the office of the Exuma Land and Sea Park. We were greeted by "Stinky", a pilot whale skeleton that was found stranded in 2010 and recently placed into a nice glass case.

"Stinky"

After spending some time in the offices, speaking with the delightful Ms. Cherry, Elliot, the Conservation Manager, came in. It seemed that they needed some help servicing the engines on all their patrol boats. As Steve's specialty [Boat repair in exotic places], he spoke with the park warden and set up some time to volunteer for them the next day to service their boats. With that scheduled, we set out to hike up to the famous Boo-Boo Hill and explore the main island.

Map of the trails

Warderick Wells is the headquarters for the Land and Sea Park with 18 different trails, over 7 miles total. We had our eye on several and started with the Causeway Trail to Causeway Bridge. This led through the low wetlands and crossed Banshee Creek, which provided a surprise view of Miss Daisy.

Miss Daisy in the distance

Close up

After crossing the "bridge", we headed up the steep Hutia Hill Trail. The trails are made up of mainly "Moon Rock" or sharp, weathered limestone that can be dangerous if you're not careful. We took our time walking up the back side of the islands' bluffs that varied from rugged, sun-baked rocky terrain to shady, mangrove tunnels [pictured below]. Coming across Murphy's Hideaway, we took a welcome break from the heat and while the kids, braver than us, explored the hideaway, Steve and I hydrated and rested. 

Hutia Hill Trail

Jake braving the ladder into Murphy's Hideaway

Murphy's Hideaway

At the top of the bluffs, Hutia Hill Trail turned into Hutia Highway with it's beautiful views of the ocean along the bluffs. We had another break and took in the breathtaking beauty that is the Bahamas. This wasn't the first time we sat on the edge of what feels like "cliffs" overlooking the ocean since arriving in the Bahamas but it still made me a little nervous. Once you sit and look out, though, all those nerves seem to disappear.

Looks like they could have their feet in the water - but check it out from a different angle below.

After our rest, we continued on Hutia Highway and followed it down to Boo Boo Beach. Since it is forbidden to take anything from the land or sea in the Land and Sea park, visitors often pile shells and other pretty things into little collections along the way. We added a couple ourselves and readied ourselves for this last steep hike up to Boo Boo Hill.

Shell collection

Boo Boo Beach

Final hill leading to Boo Boo Hill - notice the "B" in rocks to form stairs along a steep sandy part.

All we had read about Boo Boo Hill did nothing to prepare us for what we found. So named because it is said to be haunted with the souls of a missionary ship that went aground on the reef below. Legend says that on a moonlit night, you can hear the voices of those missionaries singing. Makes for a great story but [spoiler alert] the sound coming from the nearby blowholes, could easily be mistaken for ghostly songs. Tradition is for cruisers to place driftwood or something else natural, atop the hill and each upon return each year, you find your item again. The mound of driftwood on top of Boo Boo Hill is massive. We spent about an hour looking through all the amazing items, trying in vain to find something from anyone we knew. The view from the top was spectacular and well worth hiking in the heat. There was also a nice breeze up there that we enjoyed. Since we like to be different, we thought instead of a driftwood sign, we would leave one of our painted Easter Conchs. We placed it off to the side of the mound in a spot that had some other shells. We love that we added a little color to the grays of all the driftwood. 

Easter Conch #3

24°23.457'N

076°37.446'W

Panoramic view from the top 

We left, heading down Boo Boo Hill trail, and quickly ended up back at Powerful Beach and the park headquarters having completed a full circle. Located on the beach is the skeleton of a 53' Sperm Whale [died after swallowing a plastic bag]. He watches over the tiki hut, park office and front mooring field. A sad reminder of the effects of human pollution. A 50 ton whale taken out by one plastic bag. 

Once back at the headquarters and dinghy dock, we headed back to Miss Daisy. We had planned to walk the trail to see the settlers' ruins but after several hours of hiking in the heat, we opted for a swim and relaxing evening instead. Another beautiful sunset featuring Emerald Rock, ending another amazing day in the Bahamas. 

Next up, Warderwick Wells - Part two - Underwater

Shroud Cay

From Norman's Cay, we made our way to Shroud Cay and the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. The anchorages were full of charter yachts and fellow cruisers. We anchored down past all the crowd, in the lee of the island to avoid the still heavy winds, and headed out to explore the island.

Anchorage at Shroud Cay

We tucked in to one of the island creeks that weave through the island like little rivers of beautiful blue water on our way to find adventure. 

After about 20 minutes of idling along, we passed another dinghy heading the other way. Good sign, we weren't lost. We continued on and soon saw an opening to the other side, with a beach and what appeared to be a full camp set up with several boats. Charters. I'll give them one thing, they do it up in style but they also take all the good spots and fill it up with their toys. Several kids on paddleboards, jet skis, families lounging under one of the many tents, crew running around attending to their every need. Lucky ducks! But for us mortals, we must fend for ourselves. Off to find another beach. We continued on along our little river of Caribbean blue, right turns, left turns and just when we think we might be lost, we find what appears to be access to the beach on the other side. We anchor our dinghy, walk over a hill of moon rocks [aged limestone, blackened by the sun and sharpened by the waters] to a beautiful long sandy beach and what do we see? Not a single yacht guest or another person in sight!

Tropicbird in nest

Tropicbird in nest

Making our way down the other side of the moon rock hill, we are caught by surprise [okay, I'll admit, scared silly] by an ear piercing screech. Looking down, we see a white-tailed Tropicbird guarding his nest in a small cavity in the hillside. Making sure not to scare this beauty from his nest, we take a moment to look around and realize there are quite a few of these holes and decide to keep our eye out. Good thing too, we almost stepped on one more on the way down. These unique birds are a beauty to see in the sky. Easily identified by its pair of long tail feathers that stream out behind it, extending to over 30 inches. The populations of Tropicbirds are declining rapidly. Just twenty years ago, there were 10,000 pairs nesting in the West Indies, today there are only 2,000 - 3,000 pair. Approximately 500 of these pairs nest in the Bahamas. A pair will lay a single egg and take turns incubating while the other hunts.

*not my photo* but I wanted you to see how beautiful they are in flight

Once off the rocks and onto the soft sandy beach, we had a pleasant walk and swim in the soft waves. We spent a couple hours there before heading back, extra careful this time to avoid the nesting beauties. Once back in the dinghy, we continued down the inland river in the same direction we were in before we stopped. We ended up coming out of the island on the same side but about a mile down from Miss Daisy. While on the way back, we spotted a sign on one of the small beaches. We had read about a fresh water well that had been used for over a hundred years and here was a sun-faded sign that read simply "To Well". We beached and followed the path, up the cliff, aided by steps that had been carved into the limestone. At the top was another sign that read "Trail to Well" shaped into a makeshift arrow. We followed a path that ended at a large natural hole. There were a couple of buckets with ropes attached, so Steve pulled one up and sampled the water. Delicious! We just so happened to have our large water container with us [always plan ahead] so we filled it up and our strong man-child, Jacob, carried it back to the dinghy.

Delicious, yummy water

Fresh Water Well that has been used over 100 years. The Caretaker in 1929, put a rock ring around the lip of the well to keep it from crumbling in.

Once back on the boat, we realized the wind had turned just enough to rough up the waters and our plan of anchoring out of the way didn't pan out as several boats were not too close for comfort. We decided we'd rough the waves and winds and head out in search of calmer water. Steve planned our route for Warderick Wells, only about an hour away, and off we went.

Next stop, Warderick Wells!